QUINCE CHEESE

I was given some quinces, so decided to make the Spanish version of Quince Cheese, Membrillo.

Clean the skins, chop them in four, removing any bruised bits and put them in a large pan with enough water not to boil dry. When the quinces are soft, push it all through a sieve and weigh the pulp (weigh a jug or bowl first, then subtract it from the total). Less messy.
The Good Housekeeping recipe for quince cheese adds the juice of an orange, I used lemon juice.
For every pound of pulp add a pound of granulated sugar. Put all back in the pan and heat slowly until sugar is dissolved, then bring to the boil and cook until it thickens and will set like jelly when cool. Pour into a lined baking tray and leave.
Other versions have a cinnamon stick to add flavour, but I think it would spoil the subtle flavour of the quinces. It should keep well wrapped in greaseproof paper. Good Houasekeeping store theirs for 2 to 3 months before using. It's eaten with cheese, so we can see what its like at Christmas!

MINCEMEAT

Granny with Nell, Ted, Frank, Bob and Joan 1921

My version of Granny Whitley's recipe

2lbs cooking apples

1/4lb almonds

1lb currants

1/2lb butter

1/2lb raisins

1/4lb candied peel (preferably orange)

1/2lb sultanas

1 lemon

1+1/2lbs demerara sugar

1/2tsp each ground cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice

In a large bowl, grate the lemon rind and squeeze the juice. Peel, core and chop the apples finely into the bowl. Chop up the almonds (leave the skin). Finely chop the butter (straight from the fridge). Use a knife to break it up in the bowl so you don't get clumps. Add the sugar and the rest of the ingredients, stirring well. Either put in Kilner jars or a plastic tub. It will keep until well past Christmas - freeze the remainder and you can use it next year.

I've just made a batch with eating apples - I put half the amount of sugar in, but it was such a fiddle, the apples being so much smaller than cookers!

Hot Cross Buns

From Daniel Stevens’s River Cottage Bread Handbook.

"The best hot cross buns I've ever tasted" (Dave, April 2011)


"mmmmmmmmmmm" (Reuben, anytime)

Makes 8

250g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting
250g plain white flour
125ml warm water
125 warm milk
5g powdered yeast
10g salt
50g caster sugar
1 medium free-range egg
50g butter
100g mixed fruit
finely grated zest of an orange
1 tsp ground mixed spice

For the crosses:
50g plain white flour
50ml water

To finish:
1 tbsp apricot or other jam, sieved
1 tbsp water

Combine the flours, water, milk, yeast, salt and sugar in the bowl and fit the dough hook. Add the egg and butter and mix to a sticky dough. Now add the dried fruit, orange zest and spice and knead on a low speed until silky and smooth. Cover the dough and leave to rise for about an hour, or until doubled in size.

Knock back the dough and divide into 8 equal pieces. Shape into rounds and dust with flour. Place on a floured board and leave to prove, covered with a linen tea towel (or in a large plastic bag) for about 30 minutes until doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 200°C and make the paste for the crosses by beating the water into the flour until smooth (add enough flour to make a fairly thick piping consistency – mine was too liquid). Transfer the paste into a piping bag or plastic food bag and snip off a corner to make a small hole.

Pipe crosses on to the risen buns and bake for 15–20 minutes.

In a small saucepan, melt the jam with the water. Brush over the buns to glaze them while they are still warm. Allow them to cool on a wire rack and serve warm, cold or toasted (and, ideally, spread with decent butter).

Beigels

From Daniel Stevens’s River Cottage Bread Handbook.

"Better than the Beigels from Brick Lane" (Beanie, Dec 2010)

Makes 12

500g strong white bread flour
5g powdered dried yeast
10g fine salt
250ml warm water
20g caster sugar
50ml vegetable oil, plus extra for coating
1 medium free-range egg, beaten
Poppy or sesame seeds (optional)

In a large bowl, mix together all the ingredients to make a dough. Knead on a clean surface until smooth and elastic. Shape into a round, coat with a little extra oil and place in a clean bowl. Leave to rise, covered with a plastic bag.

When the dough has doubled in size, deflate it and divide it into 12 pieces. One at a time, roll into a sausage shape, about 15cm long. Wet the ends and press them together to make a ring. Leave to prove, covered, on a lightly oiled plastic board or metal baking sheet (not floured cloths or boards).

Preheat the oven to 200C. Lightly oil a couple of baking sheets and in a wide pan bring around a 10cm depth of water to the boil. When the bagels have roughly doubled in size, they are ready for poaching. You will need to do this in batches. Turn the pan of water down to a simmer, then slip as many bagels as will fit comfortably into the water (allow room for them to puff up). Cook for a minute on each side, then remove and drain on a clean tea towel (not kitchen paper as it will stick).

When they are all poached, lay the bagels on the baking sheets, gently sticking any that uncurled in the water back together again. Brush all over with beaten egg, then sprinkle with seeds if you like. Bake for 15 minutes, until the bagels are a uniform, glossy golden brown. Cool on a wire rack.